THE INGREDIENT GLOSSARY

What's actually in your skincare — and what it does.

Skincare labels are written for chemists, not customers. This glossary exists to change that.

Here are the ingredients you'll encounter most often — explained plainly, without the marketing language.

HYALURONIC ACID

What it is: A humectant — a molecule that attracts and holds water.

What it does: Draws moisture from the environment (and from deeper skin layers) into the surface of the skin. Can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water.

What it doesn't do: Add moisture to skin that has none to draw from. In very dry environments, it can actually pull moisture out of the skin if there's no external humidity. Always follow with a moisturiser to seal it in.

When to use it: Morning and evening, on damp skin, before moisturiser.

NIACINAMIDE

What it is: A form of vitamin B3.

What it does: Reduces the appearance of pores, evens skin tone, strengthens the skin barrier, reduces redness, and regulates oil production. One of the most versatile and well-tolerated active ingredients available.

What it doesn't do: Produce dramatic overnight results. Niacinamide is a long-game ingredient — consistent use over weeks and months is where the results are.

When to use it: Morning and/or evening. Works well with most other ingredients.

RETINOL

What it is: A derivative of vitamin A. One of the most studied ingredients in skincare.

What it does: Accelerates cell turnover, stimulates collagen production, reduces the appearance of fine lines, and improves skin texture and tone over time.

What it doesn't do: Work immediately. Retinol takes 3–6 months of consistent use to show its full effect. It also increases sun sensitivity — SPF is non-negotiable when using retinol.

When to use it: Evening only. Start slowly — two to three times a week — and build tolerance before using nightly.

CERAMIDES

What it is: Lipids (fats) that naturally occur in the skin barrier.

What it does: Reinforces and repairs the skin barrier. Ceramides are the mortar between the bricks of your skin — they keep moisture in and irritants out.

What it doesn't do: Produce visible results quickly. Ceramides work at the structural level. You feel the difference before you see it — skin becomes less reactive, less tight, more resilient.

When to use it: Morning and evening, in your moisturiser. Particularly important for dry, sensitive, or compromised skin.

VITAMIN C

What it is: An antioxidant. Comes in many forms — L-ascorbic acid is the most potent but also the most unstable.

What it does: Brightens skin tone, fades hyperpigmentation, protects against environmental damage, and supports collagen production.

What it doesn't do: Stay stable easily. Vitamin C oxidises when exposed to light and air — a product that has turned orange or brown has lost most of its efficacy. Store in a dark, cool place.

When to use it: Morning, before SPF. The antioxidant protection pairs well with sunscreen.

AHA (ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS)

What it is: A family of water-soluble acids. Glycolic acid and lactic acid are the most common.

What it does: Exfoliates the surface of the skin by dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells. Improves texture, brightness, and the absorption of products applied after.

What it doesn't do: Work without sun protection. AHAs increase photosensitivity significantly. SPF is essential.

When to use it: Evening, 2–3 times a week maximum for most skin types. Not on the same night as retinol.

PEPTIDES

What it is: Short chains of amino acids — the building blocks of proteins like collagen and elastin.

What it does: Signals the skin to produce more collagen. Supports firmness and elasticity over time. Gentle enough for most skin types, including sensitive skin.

What it doesn't do: Produce fast results. Peptides are a long-term investment in skin structure.

When to use it: Morning and/or evening, in a serum or moisturiser.

SPF

What it is: Sun protection factor. The single most important skincare product available.

What it does: Protects against UVA (ageing) and UVB (burning) radiation. UV damage is the primary cause of premature ageing, hyperpigmentation, and skin cancer.

What it doesn't do: Work if you don't apply enough. Most people apply 20–25% of the amount needed for the stated SPF. Apply generously.

When to use it: Every morning. Last step. Every day. Regardless of weather, season, or plans.

— CharmCove
Beauty, intentionally curated.